Upon arriving in Germany for the first time 11 years ago as a newlywed it didn't take me long to discover Polish Pottery. I arrived late in June and we were invited to a get together for the 4th of July. Our belongings hadn't arrived yet so I showed up with my
Black Bean & Corn Salad in a brand new stainless steel bowl that I had to buy at the PX for the occasion. Most of the other dishes there were served in heavy, brightly covered pottery. I wanted to know all about it and it and Kenny's boss' wife promptly offered to take me to Poland so I could purchase some of my own. Happily, we hadn't registered for dishes so we truly needed something to spice up our first shared kitchen.
Back then the dollar was stronger and it was possible to go load up on whole sets including place settings and serving pieces and not break the bank. But, the shopping experience was rough around the edges. There were tales of stolen or broken into cars. Beggars swarmed the cars asking for money in exchange for clean windows, and if not money then just some food please. You might even run into a prostitute or two on the roads on the outskirts of town. And, the old communist building that housed the Hotel Piast was clean but bare, and the barbed wire and guard protecting the vehicles in the parking lot were unsettling to young travelers.
Eleven years later, things are much different. The prices are higher, the colors are brighter, and there are more intriguing shapes, like the wide, shallow bowl pictured above or the dessert cups with pedestals below. The city was cleaned up with not a beggar or a prostitute in sight.
The most surprising change however, was that there didn't seem to be many Americans there. We ran into some in two shops, but otherwise we found Germans and Poles, which were uncommon before. Is it the weak dollar? Are young families stocking up their kitchens with something else? Did we just get lucky and hit town on an off weekend?
The most pleasant change was the hotel. Hotel Piast has been torn down and we stayed at
The Blue Beetroot, housed in a rustic converted barn.
Various rugs were strewn about wooden floors throughout the hotel.
Original windows opened up into charming views.
And the restaurant offered vegetarian options with huge portions. I had a Greek salad and pierogi floating beet soup.

As the tour guide for the trip I was pleased that the hotel was nice so I didn't have to disappoint my friends. We enjoyed the rustic charm, the food, the free wi-fi (though I wish my room had a stronger signal), and Mary was delighted to find a fan in the room. But, the thing that set this place apart from the many others I've stayed in, was the service. Jarek, the manager was extremely helpful from the moment I inquired about available rooms. He included a map of pottery shops along with information about each shop on the map in his reply to me. We hadn't even booked yet! The number in our party changed several times and he patiently worked to accomodate us. Luckily we made it in time for dinner, but had we not he was willing to put together a cold plate for us. After dinner he provided us with more information about shops and let us know where we could find discounts because we had stayed with them. He invited us to come back with our families (children and dogs are welcome) because they can arrange for fishing trips and horseback riding among other things.

It was nice traveling with girlfriends. Their chitchat made the five hour drive go quickly and I had somebody to practice yoga with in the evening before bed and in the morning before we started our day. We just did short 25 minute sessions from
Yoga Downloads. We eeked through with a faint wi-fi signal. Yoga felt really good after a long car ride and before a day on our feet.
After a simple breakfast we checked out and started our day of shopping. We hit many shops that were new to me that were included on the list from The Blue Beetroot. It was somewhat of a challenge following a list because my GPS would find me the road but not a particular building number. But, we managed to find what we were looking for in all but one case.
My favorite of the shops that was new to me was
Manufaktura. They had a large selection of patterns in quantities large enough to make it possible to buy a full set. Two large rooms were filled with newer patterns while a third was full of the traditional peacock pattern.
My favorite shop that I have frequented many times is Zaklady (ul.Kosciuszki 11, 59-700, Boleslawiec). They have a nice, large selection at reasonable prices, especially if you don't choose unikat pieces which are handpainted rather than stamped and signed by the artist. I usually like to hit this store first at the center of town and then head out to see what else there is.
Leave me a comment with your email address if you'd like a list of the shops that The Blue Beetroot gave us.
For lunch, we stopped at
Elric, the place that we had lunch on that first visit eleven years ago. I can always find it because it's on a main road just across from the Three Sisters shops (unfortunately only one of the three sisters is open now). They offer several vegetarian options, you just have to tell them ahead of time so they don't sprinkle the pierogi with bits of meat. They also offer free wi-fi.
I had potato, cheese, and onion pierogi and a beautiful salad, but my biggest delight was this tea named after the restaurant. The cup came full of fresh fruit, dried fruit, and nuts. It was very unusual and delicious. There was more to eat than drink so I ordered a black tea later to give energy for shopping and the long trip home.
I really didn't think I needed anything but I of course found some things to bring home. I was excited to find this deep pie dish with the edges that save me from having to make a decorative edge on my crust. And, I found a full-size tea set for Sophia. She has had a miniature one for quite some time but she wants to drink more tea than the tiny pot and cups hold. Now she'll have something that she can use forever.
A wonderful trip was scarred by a flat tire at the very end. We got it as we exited the autobahn to enter our village. Happily our village is very small and we could walk home to get my friend's car so we could unload our things.
I called
ADAC the next day to come rescue me. All four tires were just put on last week and the lug nuts were too tight for Kenny to get off with the tools we have. They have earned the membership fee that we pay them every year.
Hopefully the tradition of Americans flocking to Boleslawiec for pottery will continue. It usually takes someone who has been before to show the newcomers around. My pieces have stood the test of time. They don't chip, rarely break, and are wonderful for baking.